Kindred Creatures
Canine Behaviour Services
Modern, professional, welfare-centered dog training.
Puppy Socialization
Welcome to the Wide Wide World, Puppy!
Puppy socialization refers to the accumulation of behavioural, emotional, sensory, and social experiences in the early developmental period (3 to 16 weeks) when a puppy's brain is wired to prioritize learning about the world beyond him/herself.
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Socialization is an antidote to fear and reactivity.
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Puppies who experience a multitude of supported and varied encounters--both at home and out in the world--tend to retain access to the 'felt safety' and positive emotions associated with those experiences as they develop. This typically results in an adult dog with more optimism and problem-solving capacity (both of which are antidotes to fear and aggression) when encountering new people, objects, dogs, and noise.​
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​Don't Leave Home Much?
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Puppies who don't leave home much, interact mostly with family, and are generally 'protected' from the outside world during this critical period are at risk for developing less resiliency and becoming more pessimistic, fearful, and prone to panic as adults. In their own homes and in new environments dogs who have not had enough variety in their socialization are likely to be more stressed and over-reactive when encountering unfamiliar dogs, people, fast-moving or wheeled objects and noise.
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Genetic factors matter, but can't be predicted.
Like humans, some dogs are saddled with lousy genetics when it comes to fear and anxiety; others are incredibly well protected based on their unique inherited traits. The problem is genetic influences reach back many, many generations and interact in mysterious ways so we have no way of knowing until it is too late if any individual puppy will be more sensitive or predisposed to fear and over-reactivity. Even dogs from experienced and reputable breeders need our help to maximize resiliency. Proactive socialization is the best way to address potential genetic predisposition to fear, anxiety, and aggression, and to optimize the positive genetic influences impacting mental health and behaviour.
Bones and Bonuses Galore
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Observing, supporting, and interacting with your dog as s/he explores the world has so many benefits: it means your dog gets the stimulation and enrichment s/he deserves; you'll have quality time together, the opportunity for you to experience positive reinforcement in the form of joyful emotions (dog love!) from observing and enjoying your dog's responses to the scents and sights and sounds of your shared world; and your relationship will benefit in spades as you 'learn what your dog loves, and love what your dog learns'.
The puppy must feel safe (not just be safe).
It is critical that early learning about the world is varied and feels safe, each encounter positive or neutral in the mind of the pup.
Socialization enables the accumulation of a catalogue of experiences and information about the world, that in turn creates a template for coping and problem solving: Puppy socialization prepares the young puppy brain for a lifetime of coping.
Socialization should be undertaken with a fervor for at least six weeks during the first 3 to 4 months of life, and continue with less need for fervor throughout the dog's life.
Socialization is protective, preventative and proactive. it facilitates the development of emotion regulation, a pre-requisite to doing life with humans, other dogs, and the wide array of sensory stimuli that it will encounter in different environments over its lifetime.
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Under-socialization--not enough exposure, or not enough protection during exposures--limits social learning and hence the development of coping skills. The under-socialized pup is at high risk of becoming an adult dog who is easily threatened and over-whelmed by novel encounters, and who experiences big feelings and reacts with big behaviours (undesirable and often frightening) towards one or more 'triggers' such as strangers, new dogs, noises, moving skate boards, cars etc. ​
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An emotionally stable adult dog is one who can navigate novelty with curiosity and caution rather than with panic; a dog who can cope and problem solve, rather than melt down.
​​​​​​​Fear-aggression, a consequence of under-socialization, can make life very stressful and sometimes dangerous for dogs and their people.
Love is not Enough
'Puppy' Socialization is a socio-biological imperative: it takes over where genetics leaves off to develop the brain's capacity for learning, flexibility and resilience. Puppies living in a human world are entirely dependent on us to enable their socialization. ​​​​​​​​
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In addition to a loving, stable home, it is critical that a pup be frequently supported in novel interactions in novel environments. ​Stable mental health is dependent upon socialization under the supervision and support of an informed adult.
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Facilitating optimal socialization during this very sensitive period involves:
tuning into the puppy's signals (body language and facial expressions) so that its early warning signs of discomfort and fear are detected and recognized as distinct from cautious curiosity
exposing the puppy to dozens and dozens of social and sensory experiences in different environments that are likely to be relevant over its lifetime.
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'Supported' exposures mean being present, noticing, and responding to the pup's experiences by:
-modifying the stimulus (turning it down or moving it away) so that it is not overwhelming and/or
-pairing the pup's experience of 'hearing', 'seeing', 'smelling' or 'interacting' with a stimulus (including a person) with:
- a reassuring voice,
- ensuring pup has ready access to you for escape (can go behind you, between your legs, up on your lap, under your chair, or beside you)
- pairing the presence or onset of the stimulus with food, touch, and/or play that the puppy enjoys
'Exposures' start with creating opportunity for the pup to voluntarily look at, listen to, smell, move toward or engage with a stimulus.
Gradual increases in the intensity of the exposure (the stimulus is closer, stronger, louder, longer) progresses only when the current level of exposure produces no fear/escape behaviour in the pup, and the presence of signals that say the pup is feeling comfortable or cautiously curious. Guidelines apply to things at home (visitors, dogs outside the window or yard, vacuum, blender, power tools etc) remembering to support the pup so that it shows you it feels safe.
'Safe' for the pup means easy and obvious escape, your physical presence/attention, your calm voice and a willingness to help in ways the pup experiences as comforting or enjoyable.
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How to Socialize to Protect Against Fear-Aggression
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the ears (then add a little pressure, then duration, to the touch and lift ears.
Human Handling and Restraint: Start with gentle hugs--a quick firm but gentle squeeze while pup is facing forward (away from you) on your lap, and progress to select others as prep for grooming and physical/vet care) Introduce hose and bath water
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the ears (then add a little pressure, then duration, to the touch and lift ears.
Human Handling and Restraint: Start with gentle hugs--a quick firm but gentle squeeze while pup is facing forward (away from you) on your lap, and progress to select others as prep for grooming and physical/vet care) Introduce hose and bath water
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Change the text and make it your own. Click here to begin editing.
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Muzzle and crate training are strongly recommended for the value they bring to unforeseen and emergency circumstances. When done well, not over-used, and consistently available the crate may become a safe haven, and a life saver. The muzzle will serve episodally, to reduce or eliminate stress in emergency situations and/or protect your pup from all kinds of dangers, including ingesting toxins and especially from the consequences of inflicting an accidental or self-protective bite that could change its life, for the worse.
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Puppy affability is designed by nature to fade after ta few months when genetics instead favours high sensitivity to threat as a survival mechanism. Consequently, if we do not intentionally help with building both tolerance and 'felt safety' a pup’s future emotional stability and ability to cope may be at risk.
'Not coping' usually involves experiences of over-arousal or panic that is out of proportion to the trigger (the strange dog, person, sound or moving object) and consequently may result in fear-aggressive responses .
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It is critical to socialize proactively because the puppy may give no indication that this resilience is not building and the fear-aggression will not present in the maturing dog until between 5 and 18 months and sometimes older.
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We’ve all heard of puppy-mill puppies, and some of us have known one. These pups unfortunately spend the first critical weeks of their life in isolation which does the opposite of protecting them; instead of preparing them for a life of confident interactions with the world, their delicate developing brains are deprived of stimulation. The result is a dog afraid of everything, sentenced to a lifetime of fear and/or aggression with low likelihood of rehabilitation. ​​​​​​​​
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Dog parks are not safe for puppies.
It can be almost impossible to adequately protect a puppy at a public dog park.
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Dogs who do not have experience with puppies, dogs who do not like puppies, dogs who do not like specifically black puppies, or male puppies, or fluffy coated puppies, or ... visit dog parks. Big heavy dogs who lack spatial awareness body slam to say hello visit dog parks, dogs with rough play styles visit dog parks. Dogs with poor emotion regulation or suffer from over-arousal visit dog parks. Dogs that meet up and start playing and running together as a group often lose their own good minds and manners to over-arousal and aggression triggered by the group energy may ambush your pup.
Over-arousal, and hence the potential for escalating behaviours and conflict,
runs high at dog parks.
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Problem behaviour happens can emerge without warning and too quickly for us to be help enough.
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It's all too much for a puppy.
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Several strange dogs charging at a pup is just too much too fast and terrifying. But all it takes is one--just one overpowering and aggressive overture from one over-aroused dog to traumatize a pup. It can take months, years, or never in a lifetime for a pup to get over the fear. A puppy on the receiving end of an ambush that becomes an 'attack' can be fatal.
Having your pup on leash is not a solution; in fact a leashed pup is at greater risk and has less options for escape and self-defense.
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​Puppies benefit most from opportunities for supervised play with age mates, ideally selective other dogs with whom they have good chemistry, and can become 'friends' they can meet up with and play with often. A few minutes of play at a time is ideal, since a tired puppy plays harder and faster, and because self-control erodes and the quality of the play declines. Frequent, short, positive time-outs (breaks, not punishment) are always advisable.
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It is ideal if a pup also has a select older dog as friends as well, 'chill' dogs who are receptive and giving with the pup while also skilled at communicating with appropriate intensity when pup has been too pushy or persistent in its play.
Reach out for help
with socializing your puppy,
for dog-park coaching *dogs 8 months or older.
Kindred Creatures offers a range of options
virtual (on-line) support
the creation of a socialization plan to guide you and your pup
supporting you step-by-step through supported exposures,
coached dog park excursions
Trainer Trains sessions where trainer and your pup go out and about while you work or observe.
Strangers
In your home and out: Unfamiliar humans of different skin colours, ages and sizes, walking, running, crawling, dancing, engaged in many different activities including riding in and on things and carrying things like umbrellas and knapsacks, wearing hats, helmets and puffy coats, playing sports and hitting, kicking, swinging things, tackling each other.
Babies, Toddlers, Kids
All are unpredictable and loud and may be erratic in their movements and approach. Babies cry and kick and wave their arms, and grab, and crawl. Toddlers toddle, run, change directions fast, jump, screech, carry and throw toys.
Children are loud and move suddenly. They must be taught to not run into, jump on, sit on, hit on or hug the dog.
Objects:
Objects in the light and in the dark--different shapes, sizes, smells, sounds. Things that blend and whirl, beep and play tunes, bang and boom and blow in the wind.
​Moving objects. Motorized (lawn mowers, vacuum cleaners, construction equipment, garbage trucks) and not motorized (bicycles, carts, baby carriages, skate boards)
Different Environments
City with tall buildings, shadows, noise, vehicles, sudden sounds, and city smells; narrow or crowded walking paths, intersections, tight corners, other dogs passing close on leash; quiet streets, open spaces; nature--near water, forests, fields, farms; the sight of cows, horses, chickens, machinery.
Texture, Touch, Places
Surfaces--soft, hard, wet, slippery, crinkly, smooth, hot, cold, squishy, wobbly, crunchy, scratchy, shiny; metal, grass, sand, gravel, pavement; standing high-up on a table (vet, grooming), lying down under a chair, in a car, on a boat. Human touch/pressure to the collar, legs, paws, tail, back, shoulders, ears, snout. Touching from behind (mild startle).
Sounds and Smell
Sudden onset and background sounds--different pitches and volumes​
Smell is a dog's most important sense; acuity takes time to develop though. Offer items for pup to sniff, by choice. Allow lingering on smells, including humans and other dog butts. Be aware that pup may be processing smells that you do not pick up.